Close-up of the intricate Maki-e lacquer work on the dial
Since 2013, the arrival of the Lunar New Year has been marked by a distinct artistic ritual at Chopard. It is a moment where the Swiss maison pauses its pursuit of mechanical futurism to look backward, deep into the wells of Eastern antiquity. For the 2024 cycle, the brand has once again turned the dial of a watch into a canvas for high craft, releasing the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon.
This limited edition of 88 pieces is not merely a timekeeping instrument; it is a convergence of two distinct disciplines of patience: the precise engineering of Fleurier and the meditative, centuries-old lacquer arts of Japan.
The soul of this timepiece resides in its surface. To bring the mythical Wood Dragon to life, Chopard entrusted the dial to the Yamada Heiando workshops, a century-old institution of Japanese lacquerware. The execution was placed in the hands of master artisan Minori Koizumi, whose mastery of the Maki-e technique transforms organic sap into enduring art.
The process is one of profound labor and risk. The raw material, Urushi, is harvested from the sap of the Toxicodendron vernicifluum tree—a substance that demands respect and careful handling. In the Maki-e technique, layers of this lacquer are applied, and while still wet, they are dusted with gold powder. It is a technique of capturing light within darkness. Each dial requires no fewer than 20 hours of meticulous work, as the artisan navigates the delicate balance between the fluidity of the lacquer and the precision of the imagery.
In the Chinese zodiac, the dragon is the only mythical creature, standing apart from the animals of the earthly realm. It is a symbol that dates back thousands of years, historically woven into the coat of arms of Huangdi, the first Emperor of China, representing imperial authority, prosperity, and auspicious power.
For this specific iteration, the focus is on the Wood Dragon. Koizumi has rendered the creature in a dynamic, soaring posture, framed by fiery reds and yellows that contrast sharply against a moody, nocturnal black background. The depth of the scene is enhanced by inlays of mother-of-pearl and the granular texture of gold flakes, creating a sense of celestial movement. The dragon does not merely sit upon the dial; it appears to be emerging from the clouds, a guardian of the time displayed by the gilded hands.
While the face of the watch speaks to ancient artistry, the engine within speaks to modern horological refinement. The artwork is housed in an ultra-thin 39.5 mm case crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold. The choice of rose gold provides a warm, complementary frame to the organic tones of the lacquer, bridging the gap between the metallic case and the natural resin dial.
Powering the vessel is the in-house L.U.C 96.17-L calibre. This movement is notable for its slender profile, achieved through the use of a micro-rotor. By integrating the rotor into the plane of the movement rather than sitting atop it, Chopard maintains the watch’s slim elegance, ensuring that the piece wears like a dress watch rather than a bulky statement. It is a technical decision that serves the aesthetic: the mechanics retreat to let the art take center stage.
The L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is a testament to the preservation of intangible heritage. In an era of mass production, the reliance on the hands of a single master artisan like Koizumi is a deliberate act of curation.
By combining the symbolism of the East—where the dragon represents the benevolent force of nature and leadership—with the technical excellence of the West, Chopard creates an object that exists outside of fleeting trends. It is a harmonious tribute to ancestral heritage, where the counting of seconds is secondary to the appreciation of the craft that frames them.
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